Дресс-коды. 700 лет модной истории в деталях - Ричард Томпсон Форд
Дресс-коды. 700 лет модной истории в деталях читать книгу онлайн
Целых 700 лет истории моды в одной книге! Книга-энциклопедия культуролога и историка мода Ричарда Томпсона Форда – увлекательное исследование моды и ее влияния на общество на протяжении столетий. Автор остроумно повествует о том, как веками строгие дресс-коды были одним из действенных способов сохранения политического контроля монархов и аристократии. Мода всегда играла важную роль в борьбе за права и социальные преобразования, никогда не ограничиваясь только отражением культурных и эстетических предпочтений. Даже в наше время, когда дресс-коды стали менее строгими, одежда способна передавать множество посланий. Она может рассказать о наших убеждениях, стремлениях и ценностях, о том, что для нас важно и к какой социальной группе мы принадлежим. Эта книга раскроет все модные секреты и поможет разобраться в неписаных правилах дресс-кодов. Ведь для того, чтобы нарушать модные законы, их нужно знать!
217
The Lily, July 1851, 53.
218
The Lily, May 1856.
219
Rational Dress Society Gazette, No. 4, January 1889, 1.
220
Ibid.
221
Perrot, Fashioning the Bourgeoisie, 153.
222
Ibid., 156.
223
Debay, A. Hygiène Vestimentaire: Les Modes Et Les Parures Chez Les français Depuis létablissement De La Monarchie jusquà Nos Jours. Précédés Dun Curieux parallèle Des Modes Chez Les Anciennes Dames Grepues Et Romaines. Paris: Dentu, 1857. 170–171.
224
Flower, Benjamin Orange. Fashion’s Slaves. Boston: Arena, 1892. p. 15.
225
Perrot, Fashioning the Bourgeoisie, 154. 443.
226
Perrot, Fashioning the Bourgeoisie, 157. (quoting Verardi, Louis. Manuel du bon ton et de la politesse francaise: nouveau guide pour se conduire dans le monde.)
227
Rational Dress Society Gazette, No. 4, January 1889. p. 2.
228
Wilde, Oscar. Slaves of Fashion, Woman’s Dress, More Radical Ideas upon Dress Reform and Costume in Wilde, Oscar. Shorter Prose Pieces, Project Guttenberg (2000) (originally in the Pall Mall Gazette, 1884); Oscar Wilde, The Philosophy of Dress, New York Tribune, 1885.
229
Burke, Joanna. The Great Male Renunciation: Men’s Dress Reform in Inter-war Britain, Journal of Design History, Vol. 9, No. 1 (1996), p. 23.
230
Ibid.
231
Ibid.
232
Ibid., 24. (emphasis mine.)
233
Ibid., 26.
234
Sears, Clare. Electric Brilliancy: Cross-Dressing Law and Freak Show Displays in Nineteenth-Century San Francisco, Women’s Studies Quarterly, Vol. 36, No. 3/4, Trans- (Fall – Winter, 2008), 170–187.
235
Eskridge, William. GayLaw. 1999, 27.
236
Ibid.
237
Sears, Electric Brilliancy, 171.
238
Zakim, Ready Made Democracy, 201.
239
Makaris, Skye. This Difficult to Wear Skirt Helped to Break Down Class Barriers. Racked, December 7, 2017. https://www.racked.com/2017/12/7/16717206/cage-crinoline-feminism-class
240
Zakim, Ready Made Democracy.
241
Barnard, Malcolm. Fashion as Communication. Florence: Taylor and Francis, 2013.
242
Plunder Baskets. Dundee Courier, 24 Sept., 1862.
243
Petit Journal Pour Rire. Paris, 1856. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91oHNUtfM%2BL.jpg
244
Burke, The Great Male Renunciation, 30.
245
Ibid., 126.
246
Hollander, Sex and Suits, 116.
247
Ibid., 121.
248
Ibid., 140.
249
Fitzgerald, F. Scott. Bernice Bobs Her Hair. Saturday Evening Post, May 1, 1920.
250
Hansen, Dian, History of Men’s Magazines. Koln; London: Taschen, 2004.
251
Spivak, Emily. The History of the Flapper, Part 2: Makeup Makes a Bold Entrance. Smithsonian.com. Smithsonian Institution, February 7, 2013. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/the-history-of-the-flapper-part-2-makeup-makes-a-bold-entrance-13098323/.
252
Hix, Lisa. “The Great Gatsby” Still Gets Flappers Wrong. Collectors Weekly. Accessed March 1, 2020. https://www.collectorsweekly.com/articles/the-great-gatsby-still-gets-flappers-wrong/.
253
Soland, Birgitte. Becoming Modern: Young Women and the Reconstruction of Womanhood in the 1920s. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 2002.
254
Ibid., 25–26.
255
Ibid., 27.
256
Cohn, Gene. Woman Always Pays, Says Girl of 14 In First Flapper Tragedy: Over-Sophistication of Modern Girl Blamed for California Tragedy, Ogden Standard Examiner, May 1, 1922.
257
Actress Betty Blythe fearlessly discusses the grave dangers to which the new daring dresses’ expose women, Competitors Journal, July 1926.
258
Big Business Banishes the Flapper. Tusla Daily World, July 16, 1922.
259
Ibid.
260
Spivak, The History of the Flapper.
261
Bliven, Bruce. Flapper Jane, The New Republic, 1925.
262
Ibid.
263
Spivak, The History of the Flapper.
264
McCord, David J. The Statutes at Large of South Carolina, Vol. 7. 1840. (Containing the Act Relating to Charleston, Courts, Slaves and Rivers); see also, Sanders, Eulanda A. The Politics of Textiles Used in African-American Slave Clothing, Textile Society of America: Textiles and Politics. (2012).
265
White, Shane, and Graham White. Slave Clothing And African-American Culture In The Eighteenth And Nineteenth Centuries. Past and Present 148, no. 1 (1995): 149–86, 153. https://doi.org/10.1093/past/148.1.149.
266
Prude, Jonathan. To Look upon the Lower Sort’: Runaway Ads and the Appearance of Unfree Laborers in America, 1750–1800. The Journal of American History 78, no. 1 (1991): 124, 155. https://doi.org/10.2307/2078091.
267
White, Slave Clothing, 161.
268
South Carolina Gazette, November 5, 1774.
269
South Carolina Gazette, September 24, 1772.
270
White, Slave Clothing, 160.
271
South Carolina Gazette, August 27, 1772.
272
White, Slave Clothing, 155.
273
McNeil, Peter. Pretty Gentlemen Macaroni Men and the Eighteenth-Century Fashion World. New Haven, MA: Yale University Press, 2018.
274
White, Slave Clothing, 155.
275
Somerset against Stewart, 12 Geo. 3 1772, K.B. (May 14, 1772).
276
Ibid.
277
Pearne v. Lisle, Amb 75, 27 ER 47 (1749).
278
Quock Walker.
279
White, Slave Clothing, 156.
280
Id.
281
Prude, To Look
