Дресс-коды. 700 лет модной истории в деталях - Ричард Томпсон Форд
Дресс-коды. 700 лет модной истории в деталях читать книгу онлайн
Целых 700 лет истории моды в одной книге! Книга-энциклопедия культуролога и историка мода Ричарда Томпсона Форда – увлекательное исследование моды и ее влияния на общество на протяжении столетий. Автор остроумно повествует о том, как веками строгие дресс-коды были одним из действенных способов сохранения политического контроля монархов и аристократии. Мода всегда играла важную роль в борьбе за права и социальные преобразования, никогда не ограничиваясь только отражением культурных и эстетических предпочтений. Даже в наше время, когда дресс-коды стали менее строгими, одежда способна передавать множество посланий. Она может рассказать о наших убеждениях, стремлениях и ценностях, о том, что для нас важно и к какой социальной группе мы принадлежим. Эта книга раскроет все модные секреты и поможет разобраться в неписаных правилах дресс-кодов. Ведь для того, чтобы нарушать модные законы, их нужно знать!
33
Ibid., 81.
34
Ibid., 61; Machiavelli Niccolò, and Ezio Raimondi. Opere Di Niccolò Machiavelli. Milano: Mursia, 1983.
35
Killerby, Sumptuary Law in Italy, 38; Hunt, Governance of the Consuming Passions, 29–33.
36
Hunt, Governance of the Consuming Passions, 30–32.
37
Jones, Jennifer M. Sexing La Mode: Gender, Fashion and Commercial Culture in Old Regime France. Oxford: Berg, 2004, 31.
38
Roche at 335–345.
39
Cohn, Samuel K. Black Death, social and economic impact of the. In Bjork, Robert E. (ed.). The Oxford Dictionary of the Middle Ages. Oxford University Press, 2010.
40
Scheidel, Walter. The Great Leveler: Violence and the History of Inequality from the Stone Age to the Twenty-First Century. Princeton University Press, 2017.
41
Veblen, Thorstein. The Theory of the Leisure Class. Mentor, 1953, pp. 70, 119.
42
Mitch, David. Education and Skill of the British Labour Force. The Cambridge Economic History of Modern Britain, 2004, 332–56. https://doi.org/10.1017/chol9780521820363.013.
43
Hooper, The Tudor Sumptuary Laws.
44
Ibid.
45
Ibid., 436.
46
Ibid., 441
47
Ibid., 435–436.
48
Ibid., 439.
49
City Corporation Records, Jo. 18, fo. 283 b (1566); Jo. 20 (2), fo. 348 b (1577); Jo.21, fo. 19b (1579); Jo. 21, fo. 36 b (1580); cf. Malcolm, Londinium Btdivivum, ii. 60; Hooper p. 443.
50
Hooper, The Tudor Sumptuary Laws, 445.
51
Ibid., 440.
52
Ibid., 436.
53
More, Thomas. Utopia, pp.127, 133.
54
Ibid., 153.
55
Ibid., 153.
56
Ibid., 157.
57
Ibid., 159.
58
Hunt, Governance of the Consuming Passions, 37.
59
Davies, Glenys and Lloyd Llewellyn-Jones. A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion: Vol. 1, In Antiquity, The Body, 59.
60
Hollander, Anne. Sex and Suits the Evolution of Modern Dress. London: Bloomsbury, 2016.
61
Greenblatt, Stephen. Renaissance Self-Fashioning: from More to Shakespeare. 1980, 2.
62
Lipovetsky, Gilles, Catherine Porter, and Richard Sennett. The Empire of Fashion Dressing Modern Democracy. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 2002, 46–47.
63
See Foucault, Michel. Madness and Civilization; Discipline and Punish; The History of Sexuality, Vol. 1.
64
Hunt, Governance of the Consuming Passions, 68–69, 438.
65
See, e.g., Diana Crane, Diffusion Models and Fashion: A Reassessment, 566 ANNALS AM. ACAD. POL. & SOC. SCI. 13 (1999); George A. Field, The Status Float Phenomenon: The Upward Diffusion of Innovation, 13 BUS. HORIZONS 45 (1970).
66
Roche, Daniel. Apparences revolutionnaires ou revolution des apparences, in Madeleine Delpierre, ed., Modes & revolutions, 1780–1804 (Paris, 1989), 111.
67
Hughes, Diane Owen. Distinguishing Signs: Ear-Rings, Jews, and Franciscan Rhetoric in the Italian Renaissance City. Oxford, England: Past and Present Society, 1986.
68
Kuhns, Elizabeth. The Habit: a History of the Clothing of Catholic Nuns. New York: Doubleday, 2005, 58.
69
San Bernardino of Sienna, Opera ommia, ed. Collegio S. Bonaventura, 9 vols. (1950—65) p. 77.
70
Breward, Culture of Fashion, p. 37.
71
Chistopher Breward, The Culture of Fashion (1995), p. 36.
72
Diane Owen Hughes, Distinguishing Signs: Ear-rings, Jews and Franciscan Rhetoric in the Italian Renaissance City, Past and Present, No. 112 (1986), p. 25, 26, note 74 (citing Trattato degli ornamenti delle donne), (Treatise on the ornaments of women) Aniceto Chiappini ed.
73
Diane Owen Hughes, Distinguishing Signs: Ear-rings, Jews and Franciscan Rhetoric in the Italian Renaissance City, Past and Present, No. 112 (1986), p. 22.
74
Hughes. Distinguishing Signs, 22.
75
Ibid., 16.
76
Ibid., 16.
77
Ibid., 18.
78
Siena, Bernardino de. S. Bernardini Senensis Ordinis Fratrum Minorum Opera Omnia Iussu Et Auctoritate R.mi P. Augustini Sépinski. Sermones XXVII–LIII. Ad Claras Aquas (Quaracchi, Florentiae): Ex Typographia Collegii S. Bonaventurae, 1950–65.
79
Hughes. Distinguishing Signs, 28.
80
Ibid., 19.
81
Ibid., 11.
82
Sennett, Richard. Flesh and Stone. New York, NY: W.W. Norton, 1994, 240.
83
Ibid., 30.
84
Ibid., 27.
85
Hughes. Distinguishing Signs, 47.
86
Sennett. Flesh and Stone, 240.
87
Kuhns. The Habit, 3.
88
Ibid., 40
89
Ibid., 66.
90
Ibid.
91
Ibid., 93.
92
Ibid., 93.
93
Ibid.
94
Ibid., 16, 68; Bennett, Veronica, and Ryan (ill.) Todd. Looking Good: a Visual Guide to the Nuns Habit. London: GraphicDesign &, 2016, 24–25.
95
Ibid., 2.
96
Aherne, Consuelo Maria. Joyous Service: the History of the Sisters of Saint Joseph of Springfield. Holyoke, MA: Sisters of Saint Joseph, 1983; Michelman, Susan O. Fashion and Identity of Women Religious, in Religion, Dress and the Body, Linda B. Arthur ed. 1999, 137.
